Biren Kumar basak : A Great Weaver and Artist of Tangain and Jamdani style of Sarees (GS Paper I : Art and Culture )

Context  : Biren Kumar was awarded with Padam Shri award this year and he is the prominent weaver of Kolkata , He gifted a sari to our hon’ble PM Narendra Modi in which the story of our Indian culture was depicted . PM Modi also praised Biren Kumar and tweeted “Shri Biren Kumar Basak belongs to Nadia in West Bengal. He is a reputed weaver, who depicts different aspects of Indian history and culture in his Sarees. During the interaction with the Padma Awardees, he presented something to me which I greatly cherish.

About Biren Kumar : 

  • Biren Kumar Basak is manufacturer and supplier of the sari not only to India but also beyond India .

  •  His father was also a great weaver of saree and He was expert in Tangail and Jamdani sarees .

  • After the partition , His father settled in western part of  Bengal 

About Tangain and Jamdani style of Saree 

  • Tangain Saree is the saree of unique style evolved in the Tangail dist of Bangladesh 

  • To make it so soft and comfortable an extremely qualitiful yarn is used to prepare Tangail Jamdani Saree

  • Jamdani Saree is popularly known as Dhakai Jamdani or simply Dhakai, because it is originated in Dhaka , the capital of Bangladesh 

  • The word Jamdani is derived from two words Jam and Dani . Jam is a Persian word which means flower and Dani means vase . 

  • This unique style of saree weaving is also mentioned in Arthashastra, A mauryan Text of 3rd century BC , and various other texts of the Gupta period .

  • During the Mughal period Dhaka became the main centre of Saree weaving  and Dhaka received extensive royal patronage.

  • During the Mughal period , the tradition of motifs on the saree was started and now it has become its fundamental characteristic . This was the golden age of dhakai saree . 

  • During British rule this handicraft face various problems 

  • After 1947 many Hindu weavers from Bangladesh had migrated to west Bengal and they are continuing this ancient tradition of art 

  • It has been observed that over the last few decades this tradition art received huge support from our government 

Technique of Jamdani Saree.

  •  These sarees are woven on the brocade loom

  • Many artistic motifs are depicted in those saree . these moties depicted the Indian culture, some of depiction employees about ancient folk tale s also 

  •  Each supplementary weft motif is added separately by hand by interlacing the weft threads into the warp with fine bamboo sticks using individual spools of thread. The result is a myriad of vibrant patterns that appear to float on a shimmering surface.

  • The remarkable thing is that this weaving technique is unique regarding its fabric, its style and its art 

  • Popular motifs include panna hajar (thousand emeralds), kalka (paisley), butidar (small flowers), fulwar (flowers arranged in straight rows), tersa (diagonal patterns), jalar (motifs evenly covering the entire saree), duria (polka spots) and charkona (rectangular motifs).

In this way we see our government is promoting our ancient traditional art through providing awards to those persons who are preserving ancient traditional art of India . Biren Kumar Basak is one of them, Through his work he is not only reviving this ancient craft but also , this style of saree is being popular in India as well as in abroad also 

(Dr Anshul Bajpai)

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